EBENSBURG – Each year, Michael Kokus spends time preparing a 12-course meal with influences from eastern European traditions for Christmas Eve, the holiest night of the year.
Kokus, a Colver native, carries on this annual tradition from generations, preparing the meal using no animal products and serving the food when the first star appears.
As the family gathers around the table, Kokus said braided bread with a candle symbolizing the star of Bethlehem serves as the centerpiece.
The bread is broken by the head of the household and begins the meal, which consists of 12 courses including sauerkraut with gravy, pierogi, halupki made with mushrooms and rice, fish, dry fruit, beans , peas, honey and other dishes.
“There’s a little bit of work to put those on the table,” he said.“It’s an excuse to get together.It’s an excuse to participate in something people have been doing for thousands of years.”
One of the highlights of the meal is a Christmas bread Kokus prepares each year, which is made with a simple dough that is baked, topped with sugar and honey and then baked a bit longer.
“Everyone likes this bread,” Kokus said.“That’s the one thing that disappears that night.”
Each part of the meal symbolizes the Christmas story.
“We’re reminding ourselves of the trials of the holy family and the birth of Jesus,” he said.
Kokus’ Ukrainian family history also carries traditions of sharing stories of past Christmas Eves and other superstitions during this traditional meal.
“The greeting ‘Christ is born’ and the response ‘glorify him,’ that is exchanged at the beginning of the holy supper as the bread is broken and passed to each person is the first time these words are said and mark the end of the fast and the beginning of the Nativity festal season,” he said.
“The same greeting is used with other people throughout the season similar to saying ‘merry Christmas,’ to one another, but with a spiritual meaning.”
With three children and four grandchildren, Kokus said he’s proud to pass on the traditions of this meal and its meaning.
“It just seems like the right thing to do,” he said. “As long as I’m alive, I’ll continue to do it.”
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Jocelyn Brumbaugh is a reporter for the Tribune-Democrat. Follow her on Twitter @JBrumbaughTD.
